‘Every Culinary Artist Should Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.